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How-To: Comfort Yourself With Comfort Food
The Barefoot Contessa knows where to turn when she needs a pick-me-up.
Does the thought of making another meal fill you with dread? Ina Garten’s solution to cooking fatigue is to go for what’s comfortable—literally. Comfort food reminds us of family members and childhood gatherings, and the higher fat and sugar content can trigger the brain’s reward system—making us feel (even temporarily) that everything is okay.
When I was deciding what book to write last year, I realized that one of the most important elections of our time would be hot on the heels of this book release, and that everyone, no matter what side of the aisle they’re on, would be feeling the stress. Add in what I never could have predicted—a global pandemic—and it’s safe to say the one thing we can all agree on right now is that we could use a little more comfort.
Comfort food is a uniquely personal category—it’s that familiar and satisfying dish that brings you right back to childhood. Your favorite comfort food might be sweet, savory, simple, extravagant, made-from-scratch, or made-from-the-box. So how do you pick?
- If you’re looking for a comfort food that keeps your health goals in check, I always recommend starting with roast chicken and vegetables. I love to roast all kinds of vegetables—prep, toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and throw them in the oven. It’s simple, not expensive, easy to cook, and so satisfying. This is Jeffrey’s absolute favorite, so it’s on a regular rotation in our kitchen.
- For those of you in warmer climates, don’t worry—comfort food isn’t just a cold-weather category. For example, I love grilling things that remind me of cookouts from past summers. And of course, any dessert with ice cream is squarely in the comfort food category. Affogato, blueberry pie with vanilla ice cream, and milk chocolate Oreo ice cream are year-round comfort foods in my book!
- What’s my go-to favorite comfort food? A warm soup and an apple dessert. See below for a few of my favorite recipes from Modern Comfort Food!
Split Pea Soup with Crispy Kielbasa
One of my all-time favorite comfort foods is a bowl of split pea soup, dating back to the days when my mother served us canned pea soup with cut-up hot dogs (very ’50s!). Now I prefer a big pot of homemade soup to serve with sautéed kielbasa on top. I love the way the earthy, creamy soup contrasts with the crispy, spicy sausage.
SERVES 6
- Good olive oil
- 2 cups chopped leeks, white and light green parts, spun-dried (2 leeks)
- 1 1⁄2 cups chopped yellow onion (1 large)
- 2 cups (1⁄2-inch) diced, scrubbed carrots (3 large)
- 1 tablespoon minced garlic (3 cloves)
- 1 pound dry green split peas
- 8 cups good chicken stock, preferably homemade
- 1 smoked ham hock
- 8 fresh thyme sprigs, tied with kitchen twine
- 2 large fresh bay leaves
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 12 ounces smoked kielbasa, halved lengthwise and sliced diagonally in 1⁄4-inch-thick pieces
- Minced fresh parsley, for serving
Heat 1⁄4 cup olive oil in a large (11 to 12-inch) pot or Dutch oven, such as Le Creuset, over medium-high heat. Add the leeks, onion, and carrots and cook for 7 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender and starting to brown. Stir in the garlic and cook for one minute. Stir in the peas to coat with oil and cook for one minute. Add 8 cups of the chicken stock, 2 cups water, the ham hock, thyme bundle, bay leaves, 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer, partially covered, for 1 1⁄4 hours, stirring occasionally, until the peas are very tender and falling apart. After 45 minutes, stir more frequently, scraping the bottom of the pot to be sure the soup doesn’t burn.
Discard the thyme bundle, bay leaves, and ham hock. Transfer 2 cups of the soup to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade and purée. Return the purée to the pot, adding more chicken stock or water if the soup is too thick.
To serve, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a medium (10 to 11-inch) sauté pan over medium heat. Add the kielbasa and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, tossing occasionally, until the kielbasa is browned. Serve the soup hot with the kielbasa and parsley sprinkled on top.
Ultimate Beef Stew
Beef stew is the quintessential winter comfort food, but I usually find it boring. I kept the classic vegetables like potatoes, carrots, and peas, but ramped up the flavor of the stew by using boneless short ribs instead of the usual chuck, plus lots of full-bodied red wine and Cognac for the sauce. This is definitely the most satisfying beef stew I’ve ever made!
SERVES 6 TO 8
- 3 tablespoons good olive oil
- 4 ounces small-diced pancetta (see note)
- 3 pounds boneless short ribs, cut in 1 1⁄2-inch chunks
(4 1⁄2 pounds on the bone) - Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1⁄4 cup Cognac or brandy
- 1 cup hearty red wine, such as a Côtes du Rhône or Chianti, divided
- 2 cups chopped yellow onions (2 onions)
- 2 cups chopped fennel, trimmed and cored (1 large bulb)
- 2 tablespoons minced garlic (6 cloves)
- 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, including the juices
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- 2 cups beef broth, such as College Inn
- 1 pound carrots, scrubbed and cut 1⁄2 inch thick diagonally
- 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed, 1-inch diced
- 10 ounces frozen peas
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.
Heat the oil in a large (11 to 12-inch) Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until browned. With a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a plate lined with a paper towel and set aside.
Meanwhile, season the short ribs all over with 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Brown half the meat in the Dutch oven over medium heat, turning occasionally, for 5 to 7 minutes, until browned on all sides. Transfer the meat to a bowl and brown the second batch. (Don’t cook them all in one batch or they won’t brown!) Transfer the second batch to the bowl and set aside.
Off the heat, add the Cognac and 1⁄3 cup of the wine to the pot, scraping up any browned bits, then simmer over medium heat for one minute. Add the onions and fennel and sauté, stirring occasionally, for 7 to 8 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Add the garlic and cook for one minute.
Stir the tomatoes and tomato paste into the vegetables. Add the remaining 2⁄3 cup of wine, the beef broth, the seared meat (and juices), 2 teaspoons salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a simmer, cover, and bake for 1 1⁄4 hours, checking occasionally to be sure the liquid is simmering.
Degrease the stew, if necessary. Stir in the carrots and potatoes, cover, and bake for one hour longer, until the vegetables and meat are very tender when tested with a fork. Just before serving, stir in the peas and pancetta, taste for seasonings, and serve hot in large, shallow bowls.
Applesauce Cake with Bourbon Raisins
I love the earthiness of old-fashioned cakes, but I often wish they had more flavor. Apples and raisins are great together in a cake, but I thought some bourbon would give it more depth…so I infused the raisins with bourbon before adding them to the batter. A splash of bourbon in the cream cheese frosting didn’t hurt either.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH ROUND CAKE / SERVES 8
- 3⁄4 cup golden raisins
- 2 tablespoons good bourbon, such as Maker’s Mark
- 10 tablespoons (1 1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra to grease the pan
- 3⁄4 cup granulated sugar
- 3⁄4 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
- 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
- 2 extra-large eggs, at room temperature
- 1 3⁄4 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for the pan
- 1 1⁄2 teaspoons baking soda
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 1⁄4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 1⁄4 teaspoon ground cloves
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 1⁄2 cups unsweetened applesauce, such as Mott’s
- 1⁄2 cup coarsely chopped pecans
- Bourbon Cream Cheese Frosting
- Whole pecans halves, for decorating
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9 × 2-inch round cake pan, line with parchment paper, then butter and flour the pan. Tap out the excess flour.
Combine the raisins and bourbon in a small bowl, cover, and microwave for 30 seconds. Set aside for 15 minutes.
Place the butter, granulated sugar, and brown sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed for 3 minutes, until light and fluffy. Scrape down the bowl with a rubber spatula. With the mixer on medium, add the vanilla and the eggs, one at a time, and mix until smooth.
Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and salt. With the mixer on low, slowly add the flour mixture to the batter, mixing just until combined. Stir in the applesauce. Fold in the raisins (including the liquid) and chopped pecans with a rubber spatula and mix well. Pour into the prepared pan and smooth the top.
Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the top springs back when lightly touched and a cake tester inserted in the middle comes out clean. Cool for 30 minutes, turn out onto a cooling rack, rounded side up, and cool completely. Spread the Bourbon Cream Cheese Frosting on just the top of the cake (not the sides!) and artfully place the pecan halves on top. Serve at room temperature.
Ina’s Pantry Staples
Breakfast: I always have boxes of McCann’s quick-cooking oatmeal in the pantry. It’s warm, hearty, fast, and you can easily tailor it to anyone’s palate.
Lunch: I keep all kinds of homemade soups in the freezer for when I need something warm and comforting. Defrost first thing in the morning, warm up on the stove, and lunch is served!
Dinner: I always keep pasta and jarred sauce like Rao’s in the pantry for a quick dinner. Pair it with a simple salad and a good piece of bread, and you can’t go wrong.
MODERN SPROUT’S GUIDE TO GROWING HERBS INDOORS
You’ve mastered sourdough, so now it’s time to tackle another palate-pleasing hobby: an indoor herb garden. Easy and thoroughly rewarding, growing herbs will elevate your culinary game. Not only do fresh herbs pack a punch of flavor, but they also provide an abundance of nutritional benefits. We’re convinced that once you start growing your own, they’ll quickly become as essential to seasoning as salt. Watch Modern Sprout’s Guide to Growing Herbs Indoors, below!
Modern Sprout is a Chicago-based company that creates products focused on connecting people and plants.
